The two stroke motorcycles of more than 280 hp / liter
are obviously built to give emotions and go fast, but not to last "forever."
Certainly the use of lubricants of excellent quality and fully synthetic both for the mixer that for the change, the use of the original air filter which retains fine dust particles/silicon which are devastating for the bearings, the warm the engine for at least 30 seconds after and then the not exceed 5000 rpm for about 4 or 5 km are the rules to follow.
Regarding the gearbox/clutch oil you read on the net a lot of inaccuracies based on hearsay or whatever. For many the top
available is the motul Transoil. I say no! It's an oil for gears "relocated" in the
motorcycle market, so any GL4 gear/differential mineral 70W90 could be fine.
Since there are excellent fully synthetic lubricants, however, I wonder what sense has to insist with mineral oils that quickly lose the characteristics (resistance to pressure between gears,
etc.) and acidify shortly. The solution? To use
a 100% synthetic oil for gearbox and wet clutch for two stroke engines (quite difficult to find) or use a good syntethic
oil for four stroke motorcycle engines with wet clutch JASO MA and MA2 compliant as the Bardahl XTS 10W40. You can "forget it" for at least two or three years without problems! Note that the classification 70W90 gear oil
roughly corresponds to the viscosity of 10W40 engine oils and engine/gearrbox/wet clutch lubricants.
Someone speaks of the fragility of two strokes manifactured by Rotax, but to follow these rules and a good maintenance help to achieve 20000 km for the piston with an acceptable loss of compression and 40000 km for the crankshaft bearings. Obviously a used bike always full thorottle or on track will not come to cover such distances, but if used with due respect for the mechanics, common sense and the rules of the road these are achievable results.
Very important is the replacement of the made in plastic gear of the countershaft which at 15000, maximum 20000 km. The ideal is to replace all the made in plastic gears together.
In the original configuration the Extremas have a rich carburation, but they are never very bad in this, so overheating or seizing are avoided. On e of the key is to use the original air filter.
Always remember to lubricate the cables for the controls and gauges and periodically to check wheel bearings, steering and swingarm and links, but rarely before the complete overhaul of the engine problems occur.
In addition to the operations shown in the table (translation will follow) always remember to check frequently the condition of the tires, oil leaks, the functionality of the lights: it is for your safety!
As for the restoration also the maintenance will be resumed in specific technical areas and there will be constant improvement, so visit regularly to enjoy the news!